Malta is an archipelago, consisting of 7 islands, of which
only 3 are inhabited: Malta, Gozo, and Comino (with only two families, and one
police officer, presumably to keep the two families in line!). On Tuesday we took a very hot, very bouncy
ride up to Gozo, via a short ferry ride.
On the way, I learned that one of our drivers was none other than the
stepson of C.S. Lewis! Who also happens
to live on the island, and is best friends with our host. Oh my…
The landscape grew progressively less urban, more green and
floral, the dips and hills beginning to yield up stunning views of the
Mediterranean. Our cameras were soon
clicking.
According to tradition, Gozo is identified as “Calypso’s
Island” (I presume that is more about tourism than anything else). From the tour book:
“Above Ramla Bay on a rocky rise, there is a small grotto
that is said to have been a love-nest for… Calypso and…Ulysses.
Zeus intervened, and Ulysses escaped; I am not up on Greek mythology,
so don’t know what happened next, but you can check Wikipedia for that story if
you like!
“Although it is
difficult to compare the current state of the grotto and its surrounding with
Homer’s description of Calypso’s residence in the Odyssey, prehistoric terracotta
remains dating from the Ggantija (The Giants) period (c. 3600 BC), have been
found just a few metres from the cave entrance.”
Here is the world’s oldest archeological site, built by a culture
of megalithic temple builders presumed
to be giants—the oldest existing, free-standing structures in the world. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see this,
since it used to be free but now was carefully gated off and requiring an entry
fee.
Today’s Gozitans are certainly not giants (I’ve learned that
Maltese come in all sizes, shapes and complexions), but they are a hardy breed:
“These frugal people seem resistant to any adversity; their character is
steel-like, tempered by privations and constant danger and, as a result of the
frequent ordeals, they and their descendants have emerged strong and resilient.”
By the afternoon we were feeling less than resilient; temps
hit almost 100, and we were wilting with dehydration. We quickly accepted the offer of Doug, Lewis’
stepson, to cool off in his pool, and ended our day tired, happy and stunned to
be in such company. To his car mates, he
gave a signed copy of the Chronicles of Narnia, and waved us off to collapse in
bed with happy memories.
Source: Malta and Its Islands: Gozo and Comino, www.millermalta.com
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